Gardening Tips

Pruning and trimming can be a real pain if you don’t have the right equipment to keep your flower displays in tip top condition. That’s why we should take a look at secateurs as they will solve a whole host of problems including how well your flower arrangement will take. Personally I really like a set that have some kind of resistance and shoot back open for me but there are plenty that find these uncomfortable to user so we will go through all of the possible problems that you may encounter.

Using secateurs to trim roses

Roses are quite a hardy shrub to cut through so you need to make sure you have the best secateurs at hand for the job. In the resource highlighted you’ll find a whole host of really important and useful flower and garden secateurs. Personally I really like to go with a pair of secateurs that feel good in the hand. It’s really important when you consider that a comfortable pair of rubber grip cutters will really make going through thick chunky wood quite a significantly easier process. Any shrub that has branches that are over 10mm or so to cut is a recipe for needing the right tools at hand.

Secateur

What to watch of for when buying secateurs

One of the biggest problems your face when buying secateurs is the fact that they simply have so many different varieties and it’s really hard to know that you’re actually getting good value. Some of the times you think that you’re going to be buying yourself a really high quality set of secateurs and actually all you’ve actually really bought yourself is a set from China that’s incredibly low quality and really don’t last very well. The end up rusting and causing you all kinds of problems which is really not very helpful when you’re trying to maintain a beautiful flower garden.

Personally when I’m looking for a second tears I’ll be looking to find that they’ve actually been oiled and Grace in advance. This will mean that you’ve probably got some kind of high-quality Sheffield steel while similar which will result in an extremely durable and long lasting service secateurs. One of the most important things to consider as well as has the blades been tempered and hardened properly. Because if the blade itself isn’t actually that strong then you’ll struggle to actually cut through all of these branches. Roses and flowers are two different things granted but ultimately you want to set of sectors that can really get through good sized chunks of branch and flower.

Maintaining a set of secateurs once you’ve bought them

One of the most overlooked in important aspects of owning a set of secateurs is how that you look after them. Because if you are only intended on spending something like £50 or more for a set of really high quality blades that cut through flowers and make your flower gardens look absolutely perfect then you makes sense that you want to make these last and hopefully you’ll be able to get almost a lifetime out of them. One of most important ways in which you can ensure that the last long is bio oil in Greece in them at any time during the off-season. It’s also worth making sure that every time you use them at the end of the day simply wipe blades down and then and you can also add something like wax or oil.

I hope the my handy tips on secateurs is going to give you an advantage and make sure that you purchase the right said to do your flower garden

Most flowering shrubs need regular pruning to encourage healthy new growth and vigorous flowering, but understanding when and how to prune can be confusing. Luckily, it’s not as difficult as it might seem—and you don’t need to be overly concerned about causing permanent damage. Because shrubs have so many new shoots growing near ground level, they’re always ready to renew themselves and are very forgiving of mistakes. Once you understand why we prune these plants and how they grow, pruning them will become more straightforward.

Why prune

Shrubs are…well, shrubby…because the plants constantly grow new sprouts at or near ground level rather than developing a permanent main trunk like trees do. Old stems on a shrub eventually die, decrease the number of flowers they bear, or grow flowers too high to be enjoyed. While these old stems are going downhill, younger ones growing from the roots or rootstock (called suckers) can crowd each other near the base of the plant, fighting for light and creating dank conditions in which diseases fester.
The point of pruning is to allow the plant to renew itself. By regularly cutting away the oldest stems and thinning out the suckers, you maintain a graceful, healthy form. As younger stems replace the old ones, the shrub is constantly rejuvenated.

When to prune

To prune flowering shrubs, you need to know one important piece of information: when your shrub blooms. Prune spring-flowering shrubs right after they finish blooming. These shrubs flower on previous years’ stems, so pruning before bloom would remove potential flowers. Prune summer- and fall-flowering shrubs from late autumn until just before they show new growth in
spring. These shrubs form their flower buds on the new, growing shoots of the current year’s growth.

What to prune

 

As when pruning any plant, first remove diseased, dead, or broken branches whenever you notice them. Cut back diseased stems about a foot into healthy wood (evident by its fresh, light color). You can spot dead stems even in winter—look for shriveled bark and buds that remain lifeless when warm spells cause healthy buds to swell. Lop off broken branches cleanly rather than ripping or tearing them in order to reduce the wound’s surface area and promote rapid healing.

You should also remove any gangly or wayward branches that look out of place so that your shrub maintains a graceful, attractive shape.
On young shrubs that are one or two years old, remove seed heads remaining after a flower has bloomed. This helps the shrub channel more of its energy into making new flower buds. When removing developing seed heads, simply snap them off with your fingers. That way, you’ll avoid damaging any developing flower buds just below the seed head.

Next decide how many of the oldest and youngest stems to remove each year so that the shrubs continue to thrive from year to year. The plants’ growth habits determine how you remove stems from your shrubs. You can master this art by knowing something about the four shrub-pruning categories.

Category One

Flowering habit: These shrubs flower well on their old wood and grow few suckers. Most evergreen flowering shrubs fall into this category.

Pruning required: Little or none. Every few years, if flowering decreases, if stems need more elbow room, or if you want to renew aging and misshapen shrubs, cut away a large, mature stem and let a growing sucker fill in.

When: Prune spring-flowering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Aesculus parviflora (bottlebrush buckeye)
  • Chaenomeles spp.(flowering quince)
  • Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet)
  • Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)
  • Corylopsis spp. (winter hazel)
  • Cotoneaster spp. (cotoneaster)
  • Elaeagnus umbellata (autumn olive)
  • Enkianthus spp. (enkianthus)
  • Fothergilla spp. (fothergilla)
  • Hamamelis spp. (witch hazel)
  • Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn)
  • Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire)
  • Lindera benzoin (spicebush)
  • Loropetalum chinense (loropetalum)
  • Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony)
  • Poncirus trifoliata (hardy orange)
  • Viburnum carlesii (Koreanspice viburnum)
  • Viburnum plicatum (doublefile viburnum)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Colutea arborescens (common bladder senna)
  • Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon)
  • Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’(PeeGee hydrangea)
  • Zenobia pulverulenta (dusty zenobia)

Category Two

Flowering habit: These shrubs flower on one-year-old shoots growing out from older stems.

Pruning required: Every year, remove old stems whose flower production has tapered off adn those that have grown too large. Then peer into the base of the shrub and thin out crowded young suckers. It’s impossible to give a prescription for how long to leave an older stem or how many new stems to leave each year. Such details depend on the nature of the plant, growing conditions, and how high and wide you want the plant to grow. The goal of prunning is to promote growth of stems that bear the following year’s flowers.

When: Prune spring-floering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Abeliophyllum distichum (Korean abelialeaf)
  • Amelanchier spp. (Saskatoon, juneberry, serviceberry, shadbush)
  • Aronia spp. (chokeberry)
  • Buddleia alternifolia (garland butterfly bush, alternate leaf butterfly bush)
  • Calycanthus florida (common sweetshrub, Carolina allspice)
  • Clethra spp. (summersweet clethra)
  • Colutea arborescens (common bladder-senna)
  • Edgeworthia papyrifera (paperbush, mitsuma)
  • Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush)
  • Forsythia spp. (forsythia)
  • Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine)
  • Kolkowitzia amabilis (beautybush)
  • Lonicera spp. (bush honeysuckle)
  • Philadelphus coronarius (mock orange)
  • Prunus triloba (flowering almond)
  • Rhododendron spp. (deciduous azaleas)
  • Sambucus nigra (European elder)
  • Spiraea vanhoutteii (Van Houtte spirea)
  • Syringa spp. (lilac)
  • Viburnum trilobum (American cranberry bush viburnum)
  • Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Amorpha fruticosa (false indigo)
  • Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea)
  • Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea)
  • Lagerstroemia indica (common crape myrtle)
  • Potentilla fruticosa (bush cinquefoil)
  • Tamarix parviflora (small-flowered tamarix)

Category Three

Flowering habit: Shrubs in this category flower on one-year-old stems growing from ground level.

Pruning required: Every year, cut away all wood more than a year old to ground level or to a healthy, young side branch low on the plant. You can tell the age of a stem by its thickness and, on many plants, by the color or texture of the bark. The attractive, bright green bark of kerria, for example, turns brown after a year, making it easier to identify older stems. These shrubs are easier to prune than those that grow from older stems up in the shrub.

When: Prune spring-flowering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Kerria japonica (Japanese rose, kerria)
  • Physocarpus opulifolius (common ninebark, Eastern ninebark)
  • Rhodotypos scandens (jetbead, white kerria)
  • Prunus tenella (dwarf Russian almond)
  • Salix discolor, S. caprea, S. melanostachys (pussywillows)
  • Spiraea x arguta (garland spirea)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Abelia x grandiflora (abelia)
  • Spiraea x bumalda (bumald spirea)
  • Symphoricarpos alba (common snowberry)

Category Four

Flowering habit: These shrubs blossom on shoots of their current year’s growth, growing right from ground level.

Pruning required: These are the easiest shrubs to prune: Simply lop the whole plant down to the ground each year. This stimulates vigorous regrowth and keeps shrubs from becoming twiggy at their centers.

When: Prune either in late autumn or just before they show new growth in early spring.

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Buddleia davidii, B. fallowiana, and their hybrids (butterfly bush)
  • Callicarpa japonica (Japanese beautyberry)
  • Caryopteris incana (common bluebeard)
  • Caryopteris x clandonensis (bluebeard, blue spirea, blue-mist shrub)
  • Ceratostigma spp. Hydrangea arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ (hills of snow)
  • Hypericum spp. (St. John’s wort)
  • Leycesteria formosa (Himalayan honeysuckle)
  • Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage)
  • Tamarix ramosissima (tamarisk, salt cedar)
  • Vitex agnus-castus (chaste tree, hemp tree)