June 2019

Pruning and trimming can be a real pain if you don’t have the right equipment to keep your flower displays in tip top condition. That’s why we should take a look at secateurs as they will solve a whole host of problems including how well your flower arrangement will take. Personally I really like a set that have some kind of resistance and shoot back open for me but there are plenty that find these uncomfortable to user so we will go through all of the possible problems that you may encounter.

Using secateurs to trim roses

Roses are quite a hardy shrub to cut through so you need to make sure you have the best secateurs at hand for the job. In the resource highlighted you’ll find a whole host of really important and useful flower and garden secateurs. Personally I really like to go with a pair of secateurs that feel good in the hand. It’s really important when you consider that a comfortable pair of rubber grip cutters will really make going through thick chunky wood quite a significantly easier process. Any shrub that has branches that are over 10mm or so to cut is a recipe for needing the right tools at hand.

Secateur

What to watch of for when buying secateurs

One of the biggest problems your face when buying secateurs is the fact that they simply have so many different varieties and it’s really hard to know that you’re actually getting good value. Some of the times you think that you’re going to be buying yourself a really high quality set of secateurs and actually all you’ve actually really bought yourself is a set from China that’s incredibly low quality and really don’t last very well. The end up rusting and causing you all kinds of problems which is really not very helpful when you’re trying to maintain a beautiful flower garden.

Personally when I’m looking for a second tears I’ll be looking to find that they’ve actually been oiled and Grace in advance. This will mean that you’ve probably got some kind of high-quality Sheffield steel while similar which will result in an extremely durable and long lasting service secateurs. One of the most important things to consider as well as has the blades been tempered and hardened properly. Because if the blade itself isn’t actually that strong then you’ll struggle to actually cut through all of these branches. Roses and flowers are two different things granted but ultimately you want to set of sectors that can really get through good sized chunks of branch and flower.

Maintaining a set of secateurs once you’ve bought them

One of the most overlooked in important aspects of owning a set of secateurs is how that you look after them. Because if you are only intended on spending something like £50 or more for a set of really high quality blades that cut through flowers and make your flower gardens look absolutely perfect then you makes sense that you want to make these last and hopefully you’ll be able to get almost a lifetime out of them. One of most important ways in which you can ensure that the last long is bio oil in Greece in them at any time during the off-season. It’s also worth making sure that every time you use them at the end of the day simply wipe blades down and then and you can also add something like wax or oil.

I hope the my handy tips on secateurs is going to give you an advantage and make sure that you purchase the right said to do your flower garden

Most flowering shrubs need regular pruning to encourage healthy new growth and vigorous flowering, but understanding when and how to prune can be confusing. Luckily, it’s not as difficult as it might seem—and you don’t need to be overly concerned about causing permanent damage. Because shrubs have so many new shoots growing near ground level, they’re always ready to renew themselves and are very forgiving of mistakes. Once you understand why we prune these plants and how they grow, pruning them will become more straightforward.

Why prune

Shrubs are…well, shrubby…because the plants constantly grow new sprouts at or near ground level rather than developing a permanent main trunk like trees do. Old stems on a shrub eventually die, decrease the number of flowers they bear, or grow flowers too high to be enjoyed. While these old stems are going downhill, younger ones growing from the roots or rootstock (called suckers) can crowd each other near the base of the plant, fighting for light and creating dank conditions in which diseases fester.
The point of pruning is to allow the plant to renew itself. By regularly cutting away the oldest stems and thinning out the suckers, you maintain a graceful, healthy form. As younger stems replace the old ones, the shrub is constantly rejuvenated.

When to prune

To prune flowering shrubs, you need to know one important piece of information: when your shrub blooms. Prune spring-flowering shrubs right after they finish blooming. These shrubs flower on previous years’ stems, so pruning before bloom would remove potential flowers. Prune summer- and fall-flowering shrubs from late autumn until just before they show new growth in
spring. These shrubs form their flower buds on the new, growing shoots of the current year’s growth.

What to prune

 

As when pruning any plant, first remove diseased, dead, or broken branches whenever you notice them. Cut back diseased stems about a foot into healthy wood (evident by its fresh, light color). You can spot dead stems even in winter—look for shriveled bark and buds that remain lifeless when warm spells cause healthy buds to swell. Lop off broken branches cleanly rather than ripping or tearing them in order to reduce the wound’s surface area and promote rapid healing.

You should also remove any gangly or wayward branches that look out of place so that your shrub maintains a graceful, attractive shape.
On young shrubs that are one or two years old, remove seed heads remaining after a flower has bloomed. This helps the shrub channel more of its energy into making new flower buds. When removing developing seed heads, simply snap them off with your fingers. That way, you’ll avoid damaging any developing flower buds just below the seed head.

Next decide how many of the oldest and youngest stems to remove each year so that the shrubs continue to thrive from year to year. The plants’ growth habits determine how you remove stems from your shrubs. You can master this art by knowing something about the four shrub-pruning categories.

Category One

Flowering habit: These shrubs flower well on their old wood and grow few suckers. Most evergreen flowering shrubs fall into this category.

Pruning required: Little or none. Every few years, if flowering decreases, if stems need more elbow room, or if you want to renew aging and misshapen shrubs, cut away a large, mature stem and let a growing sucker fill in.

When: Prune spring-flowering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Aesculus parviflora (bottlebrush buckeye)
  • Chaenomeles spp.(flowering quince)
  • Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet)
  • Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)
  • Corylopsis spp. (winter hazel)
  • Cotoneaster spp. (cotoneaster)
  • Elaeagnus umbellata (autumn olive)
  • Enkianthus spp. (enkianthus)
  • Fothergilla spp. (fothergilla)
  • Hamamelis spp. (witch hazel)
  • Hippophae rhamnoides (seabuckthorn)
  • Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire)
  • Lindera benzoin (spicebush)
  • Loropetalum chinense (loropetalum)
  • Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony)
  • Poncirus trifoliata (hardy orange)
  • Viburnum carlesii (Koreanspice viburnum)
  • Viburnum plicatum (doublefile viburnum)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Colutea arborescens (common bladder senna)
  • Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon)
  • Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’(PeeGee hydrangea)
  • Zenobia pulverulenta (dusty zenobia)

Category Two

Flowering habit: These shrubs flower on one-year-old shoots growing out from older stems.

Pruning required: Every year, remove old stems whose flower production has tapered off adn those that have grown too large. Then peer into the base of the shrub and thin out crowded young suckers. It’s impossible to give a prescription for how long to leave an older stem or how many new stems to leave each year. Such details depend on the nature of the plant, growing conditions, and how high and wide you want the plant to grow. The goal of prunning is to promote growth of stems that bear the following year’s flowers.

When: Prune spring-floering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Abeliophyllum distichum (Korean abelialeaf)
  • Amelanchier spp. (Saskatoon, juneberry, serviceberry, shadbush)
  • Aronia spp. (chokeberry)
  • Buddleia alternifolia (garland butterfly bush, alternate leaf butterfly bush)
  • Calycanthus florida (common sweetshrub, Carolina allspice)
  • Clethra spp. (summersweet clethra)
  • Colutea arborescens (common bladder-senna)
  • Edgeworthia papyrifera (paperbush, mitsuma)
  • Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush)
  • Forsythia spp. (forsythia)
  • Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine)
  • Kolkowitzia amabilis (beautybush)
  • Lonicera spp. (bush honeysuckle)
  • Philadelphus coronarius (mock orange)
  • Prunus triloba (flowering almond)
  • Rhododendron spp. (deciduous azaleas)
  • Sambucus nigra (European elder)
  • Spiraea vanhoutteii (Van Houtte spirea)
  • Syringa spp. (lilac)
  • Viburnum trilobum (American cranberry bush viburnum)
  • Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Amorpha fruticosa (false indigo)
  • Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea)
  • Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea)
  • Lagerstroemia indica (common crape myrtle)
  • Potentilla fruticosa (bush cinquefoil)
  • Tamarix parviflora (small-flowered tamarix)

Category Three

Flowering habit: Shrubs in this category flower on one-year-old stems growing from ground level.

Pruning required: Every year, cut away all wood more than a year old to ground level or to a healthy, young side branch low on the plant. You can tell the age of a stem by its thickness and, on many plants, by the color or texture of the bark. The attractive, bright green bark of kerria, for example, turns brown after a year, making it easier to identify older stems. These shrubs are easier to prune than those that grow from older stems up in the shrub.

When: Prune spring-flowering shrubs in late spring or early summer. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late fall or early spring.

Spring-flowering shrubs

  • Kerria japonica (Japanese rose, kerria)
  • Physocarpus opulifolius (common ninebark, Eastern ninebark)
  • Rhodotypos scandens (jetbead, white kerria)
  • Prunus tenella (dwarf Russian almond)
  • Salix discolor, S. caprea, S. melanostachys (pussywillows)
  • Spiraea x arguta (garland spirea)

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Abelia x grandiflora (abelia)
  • Spiraea x bumalda (bumald spirea)
  • Symphoricarpos alba (common snowberry)

Category Four

Flowering habit: These shrubs blossom on shoots of their current year’s growth, growing right from ground level.

Pruning required: These are the easiest shrubs to prune: Simply lop the whole plant down to the ground each year. This stimulates vigorous regrowth and keeps shrubs from becoming twiggy at their centers.

When: Prune either in late autumn or just before they show new growth in early spring.

Summer-flowering shrubs

  • Buddleia davidii, B. fallowiana, and their hybrids (butterfly bush)
  • Callicarpa japonica (Japanese beautyberry)
  • Caryopteris incana (common bluebeard)
  • Caryopteris x clandonensis (bluebeard, blue spirea, blue-mist shrub)
  • Ceratostigma spp. Hydrangea arborescens ‘Grandiflora’ (hills of snow)
  • Hypericum spp. (St. John’s wort)
  • Leycesteria formosa (Himalayan honeysuckle)
  • Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage)
  • Tamarix ramosissima (tamarisk, salt cedar)
  • Vitex agnus-castus (chaste tree, hemp tree)

This article we will talk about the steps of creating your own vegetable garden

Where to have the vegetable patch

First and foremost when growing vegetables you want your vegetables to be happy. If they are happy they will grow and produce excellent tasting vegetables. In order for your vegetables to be happy the vegetable plot has to be positioned just right, Ideally you want your vegetable plot to be positioned where it can receive full sun for most of the year. Early March to late November is a time period where this full sun is of particular importance.

Many vegetables are hungry eaters and will require a constant supply of water. So you need to avoid placing your vegetable plot next to large trees or hedges. This is because the trees and hedges will take the water and nutrients from the soil denying your vegetables their sustenance.

Tomatoes growing on the branches

Tomatoes growing on the branches

In the summer months you will need to water your vegetable plot frequently. You will do this by hand or with a hosepipe. So select a plot where access to a water supply is nearby.
Wind can cause havoc to a vegetable plot so consider protection against this with a windbreak of some sort. A low hedge can be ideal for this. A high hedge though can prevent the sun hitting the plot and also take valuable water and nutrients away.

Checking The Soil

Once you have selected the ideal position for your vegetable plot, the next step is to check out the soil. Vegetables grow better in a slightly acidic soil. With a PH test you want the soil to come up at about 6.5 for optimum growing. You can test the soil using a soil test kit which can be bought from any decent garden store. They do not cost much and are well worth the expense.
Once you have tested your soil you will know if it is acidic or alkaline and you can adjust it accordingly before planting any vegetables. If your soil is too acidic you will need to add garden lime to it. Testing the vegetable patch for drainage capabilities is also very important. You want a vegetable patch that is well drained. So fill the growing area with water and check it the next day. If the water is still there then you have a site that is poor in drainage and not good for growing vegetables. You can add sand to high clay soil to improve the drainage issue.

Preparing The Vegetable Plot

Before you can begin planting any vegetables you need to prepare the vegetable plot fully. There may be existing weeds in the plot you have selected and these have to be removed as they can cause all sorts of problems further down the road. To clear the weeds you can use a weed killer of some sort. Though this does work it can have an adverse effect on the soil. What we recommend is that you go over the plot with a rotavator. This will turn over the soil and pull out any weeds that are present. Once you have removed the weeds it is a good idea to burn them and not place them on your compost heap. As well as removing the weeds take away any rubbish or large stones.

Rotovating garden

Rotovating garden

The plot needs to be turned over to break up the soil and aerate it. This can be done using a spade and garden fork.In order to obtain the greatest yield from your vegetable plot you need to consider having raised beds. These are easier to tend to and the soil with them will dry out quicker and warm up quicker. By having a raised bed you also have an increased growing depth which is extremely advantageous with root vegetables.

Depending upon the quality of your soil, manure and other nutrients can be added when you go over the plot. A good tip here is to add a bucket worth of organic matter to every square metre of vegetable plot that you have.

Growing Vegetables

When it comes to growing vegetables in your vegetable plot you are faced with a choice. You can either plant your vegetables from seed or plant plants which have already been grown at your local nursery or garden centre. By planting existing plants you are eliminating many risks and have a less laborious growing experience. However growing from seed can be more satisfying and a lot more rewarding. The choice is yours.

When it comes to planting there are 3 basic options for you.

Wide row planting can be beneficial as you will not need to water, weed or cultivate as much. This is because your plants will grow up and shade the soil and hence crowd out any weeds and preserve moisture. Other advantages of growing with wide row planting include the ability to grow up to 3 times more quantity than you can with regular single row planting. You can grow more in less space and the plants will actually create their own mulch.

Gardening

Gardening

Raised beds are good for heat loving vegetables.. These raised beds stay warmer and drier and also drain much better. If you have a heavy soil in your vegetable patch the raised bed is the way to go. A raised bed will stay about 10 degrees warmer than the soil at ground level. Also raised beds allow more oxygen to reach the roots.
Single row planting is the conventional way of planting vegetables. It is the way to go if you are short of space and many vine crops can be grown vertically.

Maintaining The Vegetable Plot

Vegetables do not really require a lot of looking after but they will suffer if you neglect them. Regular watering is essential for good vegetable growth. Your vegetable patch will require about 2 inches of water every week for it to flourish. Unfortunately you can not rely upon nature to do the watering for you. You can water using a sprinkler system or even install your own drip irrigation system.

Vegetables do not like to compete with weeds for food and water. So keep your vegetable plot properly maintained by removing any weeds as and when they appear.
A very beneficial action to carry out for any vegetable patch is mulching. Mulching will suppress weeds, cool plants and conserve water. Straw is ideal for this.
Vegetables will need to be fed on a regular basis. Some sort of organic matter must be added to the plot once or twice during the growing season.

Any vegetable plants that are tall and growing will need to be staked for support. You should really do this at the time of planting rather than waiting until the plant has grown significantly.

Maintaining The Vegetable Plot

Maintaining The Vegetable Plot

Thinning out is necessary. When you plant seeds you will inevitably end up with too many seedlings. They will compete with each other for food and water and hence end up stunted in growth. Thin out seedlings when they are small.

In order to obtain the greatest yield from your vegetable plot you need to consider having raised beds. These are easier to tend to and the soil with them will dry out quicker and warm up quicker. By having a raised bed you also have an increased growing depth which is extremely advantageous with root vegetables.
Depending upon the quality of your soil, manure and other nutrients can be added when you go over the plot. A good tip here is to add a bucket worth of organic matter to every square metre of vegetable plot that you have.

Winter care should be carried out on your vegetable plot. In winter cover the plot with a green manure to protect it. Come spring time you can turn this manure over in to your soil to add extra nutrients to the soil. This will result in a better soil structure and provide better growing conditions for your vegetables.

This guide will show you how to grow most vegetables in your garden.

How to grow aubergine

  • Aubergines need to be sown early to ensure that they make the most of the short summers we have in the UK.
  • Vegetable seed subscribers will receive Aubergine Black Beauty in January
  • Fill pots with seed compost and lightly firm the surface. Place up to seven seeds on the surface of the soil, spacing them evenly.
  • Cover seeds with a fine layer of compost or vermiculite.
  • Seeds should germinate in 14-21 days.
  • Transplant seedlings to their own pots when the first true leaves appear.
  • Remove the main tip of the aubergine plant once it is 30-40cm tall, to encourage branching. Tie stems to canes. Encourage flowering by feeding weekly with a high potash tomato fertiliser.
  • Encourage fruit to set by tapping the flowers to release the pollen or spraying lightly with tepid water. If plants are growing indoors, open windows to encourage bumble bees to pollinate the flowers.
Growing Aubergine

Growing Aubergine

How to harvest Aubergine

  • Black beauty aubergine should produce two to three fruits per plant.
  • Pick when the fruits are still shiny. If they are dull it suggests seeds have begun to form and the fruits are past their best.

How to grow Brussels Sprouts

  • Whether you love them or hate them, Brussels Sprouts are better after the frosts have got them than they are from the supermarket. Consider growing them next year so you can serve homegrown Brussels Sprouts for Christmas Dinner.
  • Sow from early-March to early-April, under cloche of cleece 13mm deep.
  • Thin seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) apart. When clubroot is a problem raise the pots.
  • From mid May to early June, when the young plants are 10-15cm high and have seven true leaves, transplant to their growing positions, leaving 60cm between plants and 75cm between rows.
  • Protect from strong winds and make sure it’s sunny.
  • Any garden soil in full sun is suitable. Add up to two bucketfuls of well-rotted manure per square metre, and before planting or sowing add 150g per square metre of Grow more or other general purpose fertiliser.
  • Water every 10-14 days in periods of dry weather. Plants benefit from a top-dressing of high nitrogen fertiliser such as dried poultry manure pellets at 150g per square metre in July.
  • Harvest when walnut sized after first frost. If growing for Christmas leave on the plant until needed.
Growing Brussel Sprouts

Growing Brussel Sprouts


How to grow broad beans:

  • Now that autumn is properly upon us, this is the time to be sowing peas and beans to make sure you get a head start on your spring kitchen garden next year.
    Vegetable seed subscribers will receive broad bean aquadulce seeds in the next couple of days.
  • This hardy broad bean is perfect for overwintering and should survive even the toughest of frosts.
  • Sow November or February to April.
  • Sow seeds 5-7.5cm deep and 15-23cm (6-9in) apart. In open ground, sow in single rows 45cm apart or double rows 23cm apart with 60cm (2ft) between each double row. In raised beds all rows can be spaced 23cm apart.
  • Remove weeds as soon as they appear.
  • Use strings attached to sturdy stakes inserted at 1.2m intervals to support the beans when they get tall.
  • Keep well watered.
  • Harvest beans young.
Growing Broad Bean

Growing Broad Bean


How to grow carrots for harvesting in winter:

  • Carrots can be eaten most of the year round, but if you are planning on growing carrots for eating in the winter you need to take care to select the correct variety.
  • Eskimo is one of the hardiest carrot varieties around, and is hardy down to -10C, making it perfect for growing in the UK, with its unpredictable winters.
  • Direct sow carrot seeds outdoors from May to July for Christmas crops.
  • Specific autumn sowing carrot varieties can be sown as late as October under cloches for an early crop in spring.
  • Grow Carrots in a weed free, sunny position in fertile, light, well drained soil.
  • Sow carrot seeds thinly at a depth of 1cm in drills 30cm apart. Germination will take 10 to 20 days.
  • When large enough to handle, thin out the seedlings within each row to 10cm apart.
  • Where space is limited, growing carrots in containers will also produce a worthwhile crop.
Growing Carrot

Growing Carrot


How to grow parsnips:

  • Parsnips are a very hardy crop and can survive unpredictable British winters. They can be sown from early spring for pulling up the following winter.
  • Sow three seeds at 15cm intervals, 13mm (0.5in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart.
  • Sowing can be made from February through to early May. If sowing early warm the soil before sowing with cloches or black plastic.
Growing Parsnips

Growing Parsnips


How to grow cayenne chillies

  • Cayenne pepper generally rates at 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Units – the upper end of the medium heat range.
  • It is named after the city of Cayenne in French Guiana. It is used in a large number of cuisines including Indian, Szechuan cuisine and Thai. Of course the dried ground variety is ubiquitous, but did you know it is also used in Sriracha sauce?
  • Monthly chilli seed subscribers will receive cayenne chilli pepper seeds this month.
  • You should sow your chilli seeds in midwinter as they have notoriously long germination times, which can be as long as 45 days in some varieties.
  • Sow: Indoors November – March
  • Sow in 9cm wide pots filled with seedling compost 5mm deep. Water in.
  • Cover with clear plastic and leave on windowsill keeping moist but ensuring it is not so wet that seeds rot.
  • Plant out when frost risk has passed. Harvest when fruits are red or green.


How to grow Spring Onion White Lisbon:

  • For some last minute autumn planting Spring Onion White Lisbon is a wonderful crop to grow. It is hardy so will survive frosts, and will provide you with a crop 6-8 weeks after sowing. Or, you can leave some in the ground for picking when the stems have swelled further in the spring.
  • This variety is slender so does not require thinning after sowing.
  • Sow Outdoors: August-October thinly 1cm deep in rows 15cm apart directly into the harvest location.
  • Keep soil moist at all times.
  • Harvest: February-May
Growing Spring Onion White Lisbon

Growing Spring Onion White Lisbon


How to grow tomatoes from seed

  • Growing tomatoes from seed allows gardeners to grow far more varieties than they would if they only bought plants. Tomato tigerella is one of those varieties and is being sent to monthly vegetable seed subscribers this month.
  • It produces stripey fruit that ripen from green, to red in late summer. It is an English developed variety and can be grown outside.
  • Sow seeds in compost filled posts 5mm-1cm deep and cover with compost.
  • Prick out when seedlings are 3-5cm high being careful not to bruise the stem.
  • Grow on in own pot until 15cm tall.
  • Plant out after hardening off, after removing the lower truss, up to the second set of leaves. If planting out in a bed dig a 30cm deep hole and fill with compost and slow releasing plant food, such as chicken manure pellets.
  • Stake and tie in stems to provide support as the plant grows.
  • Remove side shoots and fertilise once a fortnight after first fruit set.
  • How to harvest tomatoes
  • Pick tomatoes when fully red all over.
  • Remove all fruit by the first frosts and ripen in a drawer with a ripe banana.
  • How to grow salsify
  • Now is a good time to be getting some root vegetables in to ensure you have something to pick through the autumn and winter.
  • One great option that can be sown now is salsify, which is grown for its long, tapered, carrot-like white root which is tender when harvested young.
  • Monthly vegetable seed subscribers will receive salsify seeds in the post this month
  • Plant salsify in full sun 15cm apart. To ensure even spacing plant two seeds per station, and thin when seed germinates.
  • Seed germination can take up to 21 days so be patient and ensure the area is well watered.
  • Keep beds weed free. As these are slow growers they can be overwhelmed by weeds so keep on top of them.
  • Mulch planting beds with 30-60cm of straw if harvest is planned after the onset of freezing weather.
Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes


How to grow red cabbage:

  • Sow in April/May in a seed bed, 1cm deep.
  • Transplant in late June/July into final position.
  • Before planting cabbages, make sure the soil is well pressed by shuffling along the surface on your heels, then rake it flat.
  • You should not grow cabbages in the same soil that you grew them (or other brassicas) the previous year.
  • Harvest as needed.
Growing Red Cabbage

Growing Red Cabbage


How to grow Peas Douce Provence

  • If you want your peas to be ready in spring next year now is the time to think about sowing your peas. Monthly Vegetable Seed Club Monthly Subscribers will receive Pea Douce
  • Provence seeds this month, ready for sowing now.
  • Pea Douce Provence is a very versatile pea variety. It grows to about 3ft and does not require support. The peas are simply delicious and very sweet(it is a French variety).
  • The variety can be sown for over wintering in Nov and then again from February-July for summer cropping. It is a sturdy variety that requires little support.

Method 1

  • Sow 5 cm deep in a drill filled with rich compost. Cover with leaf mould or compost and then cover the row with chicken wire or a cloche to prevent damage from pests.

Method 2

  • Sow them in a length of gutter pipe filled with rich compost inside. Once they’re an inch or two tall,
  • put them out with an extendable mini polytonal to protect them until they’ve settled in.
  • In a mild spell in the winter, I remove this, but install some sort of wind break on the windward side.